Blog Assignment

We're supposed to start to explore a thread, a pattern, a reoccurring theme that has become evident or has captured our curiosity within the urban environment. I've been looking at how people gather in spaces and the acoustics of the spaces. Street performers chose certain corners and their music drifts through the corridors of the old city. Other performers chose large placas to fill with an audience. It's an interesting pattern within the urban spaces of the void.

So stayed tuned for updates on my Spanish adventures as well as my new focus into the acoustics of urbanism. :)

Holiday in Rome

Went to Roma. Saw some really old stuff. Beautiful weather sitting in the sun near the Colosseum, being harrassed by salesman. I broke down and bought a pair of glasses. Fakes of course.

Interesting play of spatial movement and the acoustics of urban spaces.

21...still special even in Europe

We decided to celebrate my 21st on the eve of my birthday. I'll share the day with you soon. trying to catch up :)

Birthday Sightseeing

I've been in Barcelona for a month and had to stop by the Sagrada Familia for my birthday. It was to be a sightseeing adventure as a present to mysef. In between cleaning and cooking, I ventured out with Kristin and Gavin (Kristin's friend from Catholic who is studying in Valencia, a city south of Barcelona) to go to Sagrada Familia.

Throughout Barcelona you can see the spires poking through the skyline. We walk down Avenue Diagonal and for a period of time the usually prevalent spires weren't visible. When we hit the corner, the park opened up and the church lay before us. Definitely impressive.




Gaudi chose to cap the spires and arches with agricultural and organic elements like mosaic corn. It's interesting. I'm not sure I would have every thought of topping a symbolic religious structure with maize and grapes, but to each his own. He wanted to embrace the Catalan culture and the context of the site.

I was unable to stay long because I was still in need of a shower and groceries for my celebratory dinner, so I left Kristin and Gavin to explore the inside of the landmark church.

I'm not sure how much I like the structure, but it is definitely memorable. I think I'll enjoy the structure more once I've studied it more and explored the interior.

The ducks :)

We were in the Alcazar (Arabic for "castle") in Seville sketching. I chose to sit in a sunny spot by a pond filled with ducks. I shared my sandwich with a few of them and we were friends from then on.

me and my duck friend :)

Sunset over Alhambra

Granada: Islam + Spain = Awesomeness

This time we left early (its a new concept in our traveling schedule) I was sad to leave Cordoba, but excited to venture back to a larger city. Granada was a bus ride through the country, through beautiful olive groves and a mountainous horizon.

We had another beautiful day when we entered the city. Our hotel was fabulous and this timed I roomed with Jessie Euler (another Marylander!). We went out to sketch and explore the city.

Obviously the city loves me!

After finding some interesting graffiti, I was curious to explore all the little old-world streets of the city. While the rest of the group sat down for lunch, I recruited Kristin to join me and we were off to discover new lands. We wandered a bit, finding some awesome graffiti, as well as interesting courtyards. I decided to sit and sketch a bit after our photoshoot (see photo below). The buildings of the city dug into the incline , seemingly stacking on top of each other. It reminded me of the valley in LA, which I had visited over the summer. I found all the steps and innovative entry sequences intriguing, so I gave it a shot in my sketchbook. Meanwhile, Kristin had gotten a call from Nick, another member of a group, who wanted to meet up with us. She ventured out to locate him, since we had wandered aways away. I continued to sketch, dangling my feet over a sidewall with a 40 foot drop, as I sketched the homes that clung to the hills.

After Kristin had successfully hunted down Nicholas, we decided to find the highest point possible in the city for a good view. We took lefts. Then rights. We went up. Got stuck. Had to go back down. It was entertaining...other than the fact I had not worn hiking-esque shoes for the day, but had vainly chosen black flats to coordinate my outfit. The cobblestones massaged my feet in sometimes pleasant ways, but sometimes I'd catch myself on a it of uneven paving that would leave my feet sore later. Triumphantly we climbed what would be our last inclined alleyway to find ourselves near a square rising above the surrounding area. Guitar music and lively tourists, who had also discovered this scenic plateau, gathered above us. We climbed up the stairs to find a dazzling panaramic view of Alhambra before us. We snapped some photos before realizing we needed to meet the group shortly...and we didn't know exactly how far we had wandered.

Heading down was a bit easier. Shortly after our descent we started seeing familiar areas. Then it dawned on us that we had taken a very convoluted journey to get to the site. We met up with our group by a tea market where that had been doing a bit of shopping (Granada has an awesome Islamic/Middle eastern feel because of its history). We made plans to meet up again in a bit, since some of the group wanted to retrieve another layer to wear before we left to watch the sunset over the Alhambra. While some people headed over to the hotel, a few of us joined the professors for an Islamic tea. The patterns of the inlaid wood table soon captivated everyone's attention, although I found the play of the candlelight on the environment around me more interesting. As I sipped my violet tea, I enjoyed the warmth of the company around me as they chatted about the turns of the geometry in the woodwork.

Reluctantly leaving their riddle of a pattern in the tearoom, we headed out to meet up with everyone again. After the habitual head-count we started off. Walking down towards the trickle of a river, we were often crammed into doorways as cars had to squeeze by the narrow streets. We hung a left and started our climb. Talking to Christy, we soon discovered we were returning to the place Kristin, Nick, and I had found earlier. Laughing as we continued our ascent we ran into a couple from the US that chatted it up with Eric and Adrian. Climbing up one particular stairway we passed gated garden courtyards that were so picturesque in the late afternoon sun. Finally, we rediscovered our plaza and positioned ourselves on the wall to sketch and watch the sunset over the beautiful Islamic structure.

Amusingly, as we sat sketching an unknown older man was telling people (in Spanish) that he was our professor and we were architecture students. I thought it was touching that we would incited pride for this man's non-accomplishments. Other people just thought it strange.

The sunset was gorgeous:



(I'm posting this unfinished because I'm trying to catch y'all up! I'll finish ASAP)

Cordoba: A b-e-a-utiful city

Bright and early, yet again, we met to travel to our next city. I had bought some oranges that I threw around to help rejuvenate our ragged looking bunch. The Superbowl had kept most of the group up until a few hours before our departure....and a few people just decided to stay awake until we got on the train.

We left the hotel a few minutes later than planned because a few stragglers had yet to come down. Since we were on a tight schedule we left them, knowing they would be able to catch up. Thankfully, once we got to the train station it wasn't long before the tardy pair joined us.

I love train rides. When I was in sixth grade I learned how to play Gin Rummy on the TGV (fastest train in Europe) as we rode through the French countryside. In eight grade I debated religion and bounded over Sister Hazel with my Girl Scout troop as we rode to Savannah to memorialize the founder of our sisterhood. This past summer I watch surfers crash into the waves and beach bums line up next to the RV's as I traveled up the California coastline to visit my Aunt Patty and the rest of the family. This ride proved to be no exception as we pulled out of the station and my companions passed out. I sat day-dreaming, listening to Spanish flamenco music on the cheap, complimentary headphones provided by the stewardess. I pulled out my sketchbook and decided to do some observatory sketching of the interesting people sitting around me. I decided to try and capture a guy sitting a few rows ahead of me, bobbing his head to his Ipod. He was my chosen victim, since sometimes I maim people when I try to draw them. I spent the rest of the trip sketching away, glancing at my target. Into the ride he noticed I was drawing him and gave his approval when I showed him my progress. The finished product looked pretty good.

Arriving in Cordoba, life was looking up. It was warmer, everyone had taken a nice nap on the train, and the city looked beautiful. We hailed cabs to our hotel, which was located right next to the Mosque. When we got out of our caravan of taxis we were immediately surrounded by Gypsies who tried to force rosemary into our hands and tell our fortunes. Supposedly we're all going to have long lives, good health and find our true love. Quaint. I told them no thank you because I wasn't about to tip someone trying to tell me the creases in my hand will unveil the dark mysteries of my future.

Our hotel lobby

We got into our hotel and were stunned. It was beautiful. Christy did a fabulous job booking accommodations so far. It was an Ottoman structure converted into hotel rooms. The lobby was ornate and lead to an open aired, picturesque courtyard. We stuck all our bags into a room since our rooms weren't ready yet, and set off to explore the area before our meeting time. The Mosque was ringed by tons of little touristy shops and a cubby-hole restaurants. Our hunger got the better of us and we stopped into a reasonably priced restaurant only to find another part of our group had decided the same. Reunited, our group took over the sun-filled courtyard and enjoyed a good lunch before setting off to do some shopping. I got a beautiful cross pendant with Islamic patterning. I love my crosses :)

Interior Courtyard Wall of the Mosque

Our fearless leaders met us to sketch inside the Mosque/Cathedral. What's interesting with many of the religious and iconic structures of Southern Spain is that they usually start as Islamic structures and then are forced converted into Catholic Cathedrals. The Mosque of Cordoba has a beautiful, ornate Islamic detailing and a cathedral plan stuck in the middle of it, reminiscent of its transformation. I loved the walled courtyard with its gridded orange trees. The interior of the actual Mosque was beautiful as well, but after over an hour of sketching, my hands began to numb from the cold.

The interior of the Mosque

Standing under the orange trees in the courtyard

I had asked a shopkeeper where a supermarket was earlier in the day. After finishing up some sketching and checking into my room, I set off with Christy to pick up some provisions. We walked into the center of the town and soaked in the windy, old world streets lined with shops and quaint cafes. I thought that before I'd ever retire to Florida, I would definetely look into Cordoba. The road widened to a central square with a fountain and trees. One of the roads that lead off the square to my right dipped downhill. As the houses on steep street disappeared from view the river became visible. It's a reoccurring theme on my adventures, but it was beautiful.

We found our Super Dia (a chain grocery store, much like a Giant or Food Lion) and grabbed the necessary items. On the way home from the store we stopped in to admire some artisan jewelry that was out of my price range.

On a mission to find an appropriate gift for her beau as well as her new niece and soon-to-be Goddaughter, Christy and I ducked in and out of some smaller stores near our hotel. After some brainstorming we decided that another city would be more appropriate for her beau, and Maria would look darling with a charm bracelet. Unfortunately, we were unsuccesful in finding something appropriate for her niece, but Christy did walk away with a unique Mallorca pearl necklace.

A group of us decided to take a run in the city, but since I hadn't brought my knee brace I didn't know how long I'd last on the oddly paved roads. We ran through the old part of the city and across an ancient Roman bridge currently under reconstruction. Reaching the other side of the city we decided to test out the boarded river walk in hopes in being nicer to our knees. As we ran along the river I took in the old city along the opposite riverbank. My running companions ran along to the beats blaring through the Ipods, but I've always preferred to be aware of my surroundings. Ironic because as I call out to my friends to alert them that the walk was ending, I trip on a raised board and gracefully skid across the boardwalk. Laughing at my never ending finesse, I brush myself off and shrug off my throbbing palms. Doster tries to comfort my embarrassment by sincerely telling me I looked graceful. He tries to be such a nice guy.

We continued our run past canoodling couples and historic landmarks into the newer part of Cordoba. Looping around to start our return trip, we are confronted with the sunsetting over the river. Doster opens his arms as if he wants to hug the scene unfolding before him. I agreed entirely with his sentiment. After crossing the bridge back I decided to cut my part of the run short since the cobblestoned parts of the city were not compatible with my joints. I trudged back to the hotel and right before reaching the entrance, was joined by the rest of the runners.

I was so grateful to climb into a nice hot shower before crashing into bed for a nap. I woke up when my roommate for the night, Emma, came in from dinner. I quick threw some clothes on and knocked on Christy's door so we could eat our dinner consisting of some items we had picked up at the grocery store earlier. She greeted me in a state that lead me to assume she had also just gotten up from a good nap. I went down to the front desk to procure a bottle open so that maybe I'd finally be able to enjoy the red wine I had picked up Madrid. Again, a wine bottle opener alluded me, so we settled for orange juice.

We were in a rush because we only had a few minutes before we needed to join the rest of the group in the lobby for the highlight of the day- Arab Baths. We hadn't received confirmation on our reservation until that afternoon because the Baths had recently been under construction and we didn't know if they were even open.

The Baths were just around the corner and we anxiously waited in a side area inside the building. Christy explained how the baths operated. We had about 2 hours to enjoy hot, warm, and cold baths, as well as a steam room. Each of us also would get a 15 minute massage in order of the plastic numbers we pulled. I was in the second batch to receive massages because I pulled #7 and they had four tables set up. I was really excited because massage is a guilty pleasure of mine and I was a little sore from "gracefully" falling into the boardwalk earlier.

Typical Arab Bath Structure:

1. Bath Entrance
2. Cool Water Room - pool of water with an approximate temperature of 16 degrees Celsius
3. Temperate Water Room - large pool of water approximately 36 degrees Celsius
4. Massage Room
5. Hot Water Room - Smaller pools of water approximately 40 degrees Celsius
   

Traditionally, Islamic bath houses admitted men only and represented a spiritual, as well as physical cleanliness. Interestingly, hammans, the Arabic word for a bath house, also were places of equality. As soon as a man entered, it didn't matter if he was a lord or a servant, he was an equal with the man next to him. Fortunately, some of the surviving bath houses have been turned into touristy spa spots.

Waiting to start the baths!

When we were oriented with the traditions and rules of the hamman, we donned our bathing suits, rinsed off, and entered. I started in the warm bath with my classmates. We joked around in the large "bath tub" and were shushed by the masseurs setting up their tables. Some people began to trickle out of the warm pool and head over to the hot pool. I follow ready for a change in temperature- or so I think. I stick a toe in a shrink away because it's definitely hotter than I had anticipated. Someone finally told me to just get in and I gritted my teeth and let the water surround my body. It felt so good once I was entirely in. I was really beginning to enjoy the heat soothing my muscles, when we decided to migrate and try our luck with the cold pool.

I gasped when I stuck my leg in bravely. It was really cold. I had flashbacks of getting thrown into the icy river when I went white water rafting in Wyoming. Stubbornly I step in up to my thighs. Submerging my body was a whole different thing. I cowardly ducked under, admitted it was refreshing and took off to the warm bath. I sat enjoying the warmth enveloping me. By alternating temperatures and experiencing the extremes, it only heightens the temperature differences. I decided to just relax in the warm pool because it allowed me to view the massage "room" under the arched walkway bordering the pool. Lindsey and I debated who looked like the best masseuse, and I decided I wanted the guy with the pony tail half-way down his back- not because of the pony tail though.

Soon enough, it was my turn and I grabbed my towel to lay it down on the table. In Spanish, he asked if I wanted lemon, rosemary, or something I didn't quite catch. After repeating it in English, I picked rosemary. Oh it was fabulous. I think I was humming and about to drift off to sleep when I was told my time was done. The next group of anxious bathers awaited, as I lazily walked to the shower to rinse off the oil. The rest of the night was just relaxing, as we rotated in out of the pools and the steam room.

On the walk home, we were just so ready to slip into our cozy beds and let our relaxed, pampered bodies take over. Especially since it was another early morning and another day of travel.
Lindsey and Josh (in his swim trunks) walking back from the Hamman

Runaway Train (Plaza Mayor, Madrid)

This is the sweet video I took of the street performer. If you didn't read my previous post, he had to unplug from his amp because amplifiers aren't legal for street performers. That's why the video kind of cuts short of the chorus. Oh and yes- I stood in the middle of the square spinning :)

Observations: Placa Reial

Street performers set up virtually anywhere in the square. They have their backs against the colonnades because people usually move through the center. Acoustically, the square is large enough and the buildings low enough that there is little echo or reverberation.

Madrid: Rough Start

(I'm a little behind...Saturday February 9th)

Waking up at 6 am is never my favorite thing to do- especially when your very sweet roommate has a wicked cold and snores like a lumberjack...making sleep impossible. I'm a trooper though, so when I heard everyone moving around I got out of bed and grabbed my bagel. In the kitchen there was a commotion going on by our door.

Okay....I'm excited to go too, but why is everyone debating whether or not to open the door yet? Lack of sleep left the situation incomprehensible until Lindsey explained that there were drunk people trying to get into our apartment. We finally opened the door and attempted to explain to the couple that the woman did not live in the apartment...they finally got the hint and stumbled away. An interesting start to our journey.

We hop the bus at Plaza Catalunya to go to the Barcelona Airport. We even beat the professors to the bus stop. Arriving at the airport its always amazing to see the hustle and bustle, while the rest of the city is sleeping.

PJ had forgotten his passport, but since he had a copy they let him through security. We found a little cafe once we entered the terminal I had some chocolate milk. Yumm.

Takeoff....Landing...all pretty uneventful, except for a few members of our group who analyze the different plane death scenarios. Everything from terrorists, to aquatic crashes, blowing up the fuselage- they are a little dramatic.

Arriving in Madrid in one, unaltered piece, we trekked into the capital ready for another grand adventure. It was cold, bleak, and the vibrancy that we've seen in Barcelona was gone. Driving into the city on our coach bus was a plus as we crossed through the famous urban housing developments that ring the city. We hoped to visit some of the government budgeted projects to study the ingenuity and creativity of young Spanish architects that win the bids. We passed Coca-cola, McDonald's , Burger King, UPS, and some other familiar logo adorned buildings before arriving at the Zenit Hotel....a 4-star hotel (one of the perks we had in this city).

The Plaza Mayor

It was cold and dull still as we headed out to explore the city. We went to the famous Plaza Mayor has been considered the center of the city since 1561 when King Felipe II made it the site for the court. It was designed as a multi functional space: theatre, civic center, market, housing, etc. The buildings marked by towers (Casa de la Panderia and the Casa de la Carniceria) were apartments for the royal court. Theres a beautiful fresco on the one building that is similar to ones seen in Italy.

A Prima Donna performer adjusting his wig

Instructed to sketch the Plaza and analyze its patterns, conditions, and irregularities, we set out to find a sunny spot since it was cold enough to be distracting. Carnival, a Spanish celebration that seems to be a combination of Halloween and Mardi Gras, was going on so we saw little children running around in costume and lots of street performers, typical to public squares (see my music video I post in a following blog). Amused by the children running around, I walked around the square with a smile on my face as I people watched- not quite the assignment.

Finally I settled in near Lindsey, one of my classmates who is also from Riva (small world), and opened my sketchbook. A man playing the bongos near me tryed to start a conversation in Spanish. After shaking my head and laughing, he tried again, this time in French. After laughing at his failed attempt yet again, he looked at me confused on what language to attach to my indecipherable nationality. I finally offered that I spoke English and he asked if I was from England. This guy had no idea. I found the whole process amusing after I finally explained that I was American, although not from California, and was visiting Madrid with my classmates. He ushered me over and we began talking about the history of the city, his hometown Granada, and our shared love for people watching. I finally had to say my good-bye so I could get some work done! He was really funny, and I didn't even remember to get his name, but I did get a sweet picture of us looking like hobos together. I saw him later teachings little kids how to drum.

We sketched, regrouped and talked. Then we were given the rest of the day off to explore the city. A crowd was begging to form around a street performer, so we decided to stick around and see what he would do. He was setting up his act, making jokes and poking fun at his audience. He danced around to silly music as the audience began to build. I left my group to check out a musician positioned on the other side of the square playing "Wonderwall" (one of my favorite songs). After some experimenting, I got a wicked music video of "Runaway Train" that stops short because he was asked to unplug from his amp.

I ventured back towards our acrobatic comedian who had also been told he couldn't use an amp. He juggled, then juggled fire, than rode a unicycle, than rode a tourist (hilarious picture), and climbed a lamppost. Police came to usher him away because he had illegally plugged back in and was making a ruckus. It was pretty funny to see him scramble down from the lamp post and then beg for money to help pay for bail.

We ventured out of the square and realized how tired our traveling had made us. I opted to head home and indulge in a bubble bath, since our hotel room housed a tub. I stopped by the grocery store around the corner first and picked up some lunch food: red wine, truffles and breakfast cookies (similar to gram crackers). I was ready for my bath...except I discovered I had no bottle opener! Since I was dressed in just a towel and my bubbles awaited, I decided to forgo the total scene of indulgence and slip in. It was fabulous and put me in the mood for a nap.

I woke up and got ready for dinner (i love how that works out sometimes :). Finding a restaurant to serve 18 people was difficult since we were in a low density, non-touristy area. After being denied from our first choice, we settled on an Asian restaurant around the corner. The food was pretty good and since I had taken a wonderful nap, I was ready to adventure out past our restaurant. No one else was game, so I admitted defeat and went back to rest up for another day in the city.

Kristin and I (and my new haircut I gave myself)

Sunday. It was drizzly and any joy in the city was extinguished for me. We set off on our walk through Parque del Retiro, soaking in the planning and the vegetation. Eric's wife, Adrian, had joined us on our Spanish adventures, and as an avid gardener and horticulturist she helped identify various plants in the garden. The garden took almost an hour to wander through before we finally broke out of the gated green and into the busy streets.

A view of the gardens

Our next destination was the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia (MNCARS), which houses Picasso's famous Guernica, as well as many pieces from Dali and Miro. The museum was originally a hospital in the 19th century and was converted into an art museum to house 20th-century art. Kristin Clancey and I broke off from the group to roam because we're both avid art lovers. We were devastated to learn that since a new Picasso exhibit was going up on Wednesday (and it was Sunday) we would not be able to see the Guernica. After shedding a tear for our loss we decided to start at the top floor and wander our way down.

They had beautiful Salvador Dali work. I don't think I can express how wonderful it was to see. They also had such a large collection of Miro (another Spanish native) and it was amazing. In the East Wing of the National Gallery of Art in DC there is a huge, hanging mobile designed by Miro.

My illegally taken picture of a Dali piece

Walking out of one of the exhibits I noticed an obvious group of American guys in front of us, one of which was wearing a Clemson hat. For some reason I felt like they might be part of the Clemson architecture group studying in Barcelona. I decided to test my hypothesis.

"Where y'all from?" I asked. They turned, checked us out and decided they weren't interested. After telling me they were from South Carolina, I proceeded in making the rest of the conversation awkward. I asked if they were from Clemson (he was wearing the hat...I thought it was an obvious assumption). Then I asked if they were studying architecture in Barcelona. They were- and they were obviously creeped out because I knew way too much about them. I thought it was just good logical deduction. After asking if I was Jason Bourne, they made an excuse and bolted. Kristin and I shared a good laugh. I'm sorry I'm friendly and have no respect for comfort zones.

We continued through the exhibits until it was time to met up with our group in an exterior courtyard. We had to laugh again when we saw the group of Clemson guys sketching near our group. We pointed them out to our classmates and in less than 5 minutes we were all friends. Obviously I was too scrubbed out and too abrupt to be interesting...hahaha.

Josh and I with our hoods up....I looked sketchy

The MNCARS closed and so we relocated out in the rain. Everything looked gross. We stopped by the Caixa Forum and the Prado. If the line hadn't wrapped around two sides of the Nacional Museum de Prado, I would've been so excited to go. We stopped and shopped at some street vendors before letting hunger take over. Kristin and I had our first fast food experience. By the way, the sell BEER at Burger King. Blew my mind.

Since it was SuperBowl Sunday and most of our group love American football, everyone was excited to find a pub that would play the game (which didn't start until 1 am in Madrid) until it was over. I was unconcerned because I like the party more than the game anyway.

The hotel concierge had recommended a Brazil barbecue restaurant and we decided to try that before our football adventures. I had overslept and was told 5 minutes before we were to leave, that the group was assembling by the door. I quick threw on some clothes, flats and did my hair. All was for naught because it was raining. My shoes were soaked by the time we had found the restaurant and my hair was...well its never fabulous anyway. The restaurant proved to be pricey and most of our group bailed out. I had never been to Brazilian and I also liked the group remaining, so I decided to splurge.

What's interesting about Brazilian barbecue, is they have a buffet section that serves tasty food, but then they have servers that come around with skewers of meat. They tell you what they have on their stick, beef, chicken, duck, etc. and then slice off what you want on your plate. They guys were really funny when they tried to get you to try the chicken liver and other indecipherable meat. The whole thing was super tasty. And they had live music. Soooo worth it.

The company was great as well. It was a handful of students and our professors. Towards the end of dinner we even got Eric and Adrian to talk about how they met, etc. Eric whips out wedding photos and we were amazed to see them in front of the Vatican. Coolest thing ever- they were married at the Vatican by Eric's father who was a deacon!

After dinner the group headed out to the bar for Superbowl, but because of some miscommunication I just decided to head back and tuck in early again.

Even though the gardens were beautiful, the art collection was amazing, and there was lots of interesting architecture, the combination of the weather and lack of vibrancy effected my perception of the city. I'm not a huge fan, but the rest of the trip got sooo much better. I'm going to do a new post for each city.

Hasta Luego!

I start my travels around Spain tomorrow morning. I won't be able to update y'all for awhile...so until then :

xoxo